translater may make some mistakes
The food(supply)
Contrary to the fact that many people believe, the food system is the key of your installation because it determines the efficiency of the system but also its safety(security).
A badly chosen section of cable or an unsuitable fuse and you risk the fire!
We shall determine the good section of cable as follows:
The formula allowing to calculate the rough consumption of your system (volume to the max):
Running(Roaming) (in Amperes) = total Power RMS x 0.13
Attention: the current varies according to the available tension has the battery(drum kit). (Of 12 in 14.5V according to if the engine is lit(switched on) or not)
In a classic passenger car, it is necessary to plan lengthes of power cable from 4 to 5 meters, by leaving of the principle that amplifiers are or will be placed in the safe(chest).
Concrete example:
You use an ampli 4 channels(canals) of 4x 50W RMS for top speakers and an ampli 2 channels(canals) bridgé of 1x 200W RMS for the subwoofer: the total power RMS of the system will be of 400W RMS, that is a current of 52A if we apply the formula (400 x 0,13 = 52).
By leaving of the principle that the length of the power cable is of 5m, if we refer to the picture(board) you need a 25 mm section ².
The second point not to be neglected is the connection of a fuse on this power cable at a maximal distance of 20 cms of the border + of the battery(drum kit). His(her,its) function(office) is the protection of the power cable up to the safe(chest) (and not the protection of the material(equipment) which is above connected), it so that in case of earthing of the power cable (in the case of a cable cut by a fish bone(edge) in metal which would put him(it) directly in touch with the mass = short circuit) this fuse prevents a very likely fire. For that purpose, we advise(recommend) also strongly to sheathe one or several power cables in electric girdles, to avoid any premature wear by frictions due to the vibrations of the car. The advised(recommended) passage is the one which is on the same side that the battery(drum kit), obviously, it is shorter.
It is evident that this fuse must not be oversized, and that thus he must be slightly upper informed total going to cross the power cable, is to resume(to take back) the example above 52A, thus a fuse of 60A will agree perfectly.
If you have at least amplis two, place a distributor of food(supply) near these last ones with a fuse for every exit(release) (not compulsory but it is what I would make), adapted informed consumed by the ampli (the same calculation as for the section of the cable of alim).
The passage of power cable has to be made along car doors(doorwomen) and pass under the hood by crosses(spends) them cables by avoiding as much as possible the metallic parts(parties).
Other essential point = the mass (earth) of the system:
Any ampli must be connected(bound) with the mass frame in the closest to him, with a section of cable identical to that of the positive who(which) feeds him(it). It is strongly disadvised to create buckles of mass, thus all the amplifiers and possible condensers of the system elaborated in the safe(chest) must be connected(bound) with the only mass frame.
This mass can be or drilled straight from the sheet steel (attention on the possible gas tank down, or on the passages of wheel), which will then have to be sanded on its circumference to remove any paint(painting) and fixed solidly by one lived and a nut enough big, or to be used on an existing consequent visserie near the ampli (example fixation(binding) encircles, fixation(binding) of back seat). Do not neglect the sanding so that the sheet steel is in nude, the contact must be frank, a bad mass is synonymic of parasites and diverse problems (Voltage drops(Drops in blood pressure) during strong demand(request) of current, etc.)
A last point almost always forgotten, is to strengthen the mass battery(drum kit). Indeed, with a cable of section 25 mm ² (always to resume(to take back) the same example) we can generate a strong demand(request) of current on this battery(drum kit). On the other hand the beam which connects(binds) the mass engine to the battery(drum kit) is often insufficient in term of section in comparison to the whole cabling, included sound system, connected on him(it) + battery(drum kit). The functioning of the battery(drum kit) will thus be restrained by the section of the cable of mass, what makes that it will not work in a optimal way.
He(It) is thus strongly recommended in the case of a use of 25 mm food(supply) ² for the safe(chest), to add (as a supplement to the mass engine which must not be disconnected!!) a cable of mass of 25 mm ² also to connect(bind) the negative pod of the battery(drum kit) with the frame. We shall often prefer saw them of fixation(binding) of shock absorbers very close to the battery(drum kit). Do not neglect the sanding in this place.
For the big installations we shall prefer a replacement of the battery(drum kit) by a battery(drum kit) more sturdy, more capable of answering bigger demands(requests) of current. For these batteries(drum kits), we shall not name(appoint) them any more everybody knows them, they are Optima. For practical reasons we shall often prefer Optima blue, because she(it) has borniers copies. Furthermore they are batteries(drum kits) in the frost(gel).
A condenser (or capacity) can be also used, to increase the ability to react of the electric system (titi do not like too much the end of this sentence). It is necessary to know however, that a condenser does not replace a battery(drum kit), but is more able to supply almost at once a big quantity of current over a very short moment. Concretely, a condenser will allow in a system containing a subwoofer, by coupling him(it) with the ampli of the sub, to improve the immediate food(supply) by running(roaming) of entrance(entry) of the ampli and thus will produce possibly an impact more pronounced according to the installations, and essentially at a very high sound level (see stupid(weak)).
For the assembly(editing), the tons of divergent opinion(notice), but the advised(recommended) assembly(editing) belongs to the closest to the amplifier, and in parallel directly on the ampli: thus + condenser linked in + ampli and - condenser linked in - ampli. If the amplifier has no double(copy) bornier of food(supply), we can use two dédoubleurs to make an appropriate(clean) work. For the maximal length of cable between the condenser and the ampli, it is often advised(recommended) not to overtake 30cm for an optimal functioning.
But on this point it is the similar the opinions(notices) diverge, the speed of the current in an electric cable being close to that of the light we are entitled to ask the question on the importance of these famous 30cm (losses due to the length of the cable?).
By respecting all these points, you can already leave on a healthy base for the continuation(suite) of the installation.
All this deal with the cabling of one or several amplifiers, but you should not neglect for all that the cabling of the car radio. Indeed it is often preferable to link + permanent employee of the car radio (and possibly also + contact if we want that he(it) remains lit(switched on) in the extinction of the engine) directly via a cable protected on the same principle as for the alim of amplis, connected directly to the battery(drum kit). A cable from 2.5 to 6 mm ² will be widely sufficient(self-important) for a car radio, but preferable in the cabling ISO of origin. Idem for the mass of the car radio, take a cable of the same section and connect(bind) it directly with the frame.
The paragraph above is not an obligation(bond) if the internal ampli of the post is not used, but even if it means making things indeed, so much making him(it), let us be a little a perfectionist.
ON THE OTHER HAND! This connection is an obligation(bond) for all those who have not of + permanent employee in their beam of car radio (çà can exist). Re-fall + permanent employee on the billposter of watch or any other instrument near = FORBIDS!! Finally except when you prefer to begin to burn of the fuse, to restrain your car radio, and to abbreviate the life expectancy(cycle) of your automobile by sending him(it) to the crematorium …
Idem certains l'autoradio ont le GRADATEUR fonction la (permet de baisser l'éclairage du la poste lorsqu'on a rencontré(respecté) les lumières, pratique verse la primauté ne finir aveugle en pleine nuit), beaucoup de faisceaux sont équipés de ce fil à l'origine, donc plus souvent il n'est la primauté nécessaire de charcuter d'autres câbles à côté.
NB: for the owners of material(equipment) Alpine, accessories (charger and the others) linked via the bus Ai-Net always remain lit(switched on) when + contact and + permanent employee are coupled, even by putting out(switching off) the car radio and by removing the facade.
For the connecting of the car radio, dominoes are to be banned(to ban), we shall prefer to use pods to make this connection cleanly.
The cabling
Loudspeakers:
First of all some fundamental notions. The more a cable of high speaker is long and fine, the more there is of losses, thus more its section must be important for limiting the aforementioned losses. What also implies(involves) that to have an identical loss of 2 sides and thus an identical signal for loudspeakers left and right, cables should be identical length.
To use more cables of sufficient(self-important) section (of the 2.5 mm ² is generally very self-important) allows to improve the tone of the HP in particular their answer and held in the grave.
The remote we cross(spend) him(it) of the side which we want in priori, we can start a fight of 6 months without interest to be determined if a remote positioned next to cables RCA can be generative of parasites or not, for my part I think that not, the others think of what they want, here is:)
As information, + contact of a car radio can be also likened to a remote, without the tension is not any more passed on by the car radio in the ampli, but by the battery(drum kit) in the car radio as soon as we put the contact, authorizing then the post to ignite when we wish to make him(it) (thus the car radio is not fed by him(it) + contact but only by him(it) + permanent employee).
By concern(marigold) of safety(security) and to avoid the wear of cables by friction in the time(weather), quite as for the food(supply), we shall prefer to sheathe cables loudspeakers in the girdle nylon braided, what will protect them enough outside attacks.
On the other hand, cable HP, also moreover than cable RCA, must be crossed(spent) on the opposite site in the power cable, it to avoid every risk of parasites. Thus to make simple, alim left-hand side (generally), cable loudspeakers and cable RCA right-hand side.
To obtain a length amounts left(awkward) right by amplifying the HP before for example, we pull(fire) 2 pairs of cables HP for the front up to the back of the car radio, and from there we leave on each side. As it, no rolled up cable, it is appropriate(clean) and it do not dangle everywhere.
It is also necessary to make sure to respect well the polarité of the HP, if we invert + and - of one both HP, we say goodbye in the grave under 100Hz (thus potentially loudspeakers which go out anybody engraves(burns) have certainly the one from both directions connected back to front).
The RCA:
They are the cables which your ampli ( s ) is going to bring the audio signal of your car radio until your or, one can as the cable which connects(binds) your reader CD with the house in his ampli. In an environment automobile, thus filled(performed) with parasites and consequently dreadful, we are going to choose of the quality cable RCA, which will be armored to limit these risks of parasites at most (we see often triple armour plating of the intergalactic death, but good playing with noodle according to me, a good cable doubles armour plating done perfectly).
For those who ask the question, not the exit(release) RCA of a car radio is not amplified, thus when we do not connect HP on the car radio directly and when we go out only with the RCA towards the ampli, the internal amplifier of the car radio is not used to supply a signal amplified in the RCA. The RCA is exits(releases) low level.
What takes(brings) out RCA of a car radio is a more or less raised(brought up) tension, what is going to go of step many (0.x Volts) to many (8 volts) for car radios most balaises. The cable RCA serves to convey this tension in the best possible conditions up to the entrance(entry) of the ampli, which he later will make its job.
The remote:
Cable that you will find mostly of white and blue color behind your toradio, which is of use as switch one / off more or less to your amplis. As soon as the car radio is lit(switched on) he(it) sends a tension of 12V to the ampli which is going to make tip over the relay of food(supply) of the ampli, and thus him(her) allow to ignite. Conversely when the car radio is put out(switched off), he(it) sends no more tension on this cable, what has the effect of re-tipping over the relay of the ampli in faded mode.
In light thanks to this small ridiculous thread, when we light(switch on) the toradio the ampli ignites, when we put out(switch off) him(it) the ampli goes out (idem for all which has a remote grip(taking) and what we connect above).
The amperage which circulates on this cable is so unimportant (some hundreds of milliamperes), that we can use a section of ridiculous cable as one pleases it will raise no problem.
The remote we cross(spend) him(it) of the side which we want in priori, we can start a fight of 6 months without interest to be determined if a remote positioned next to cables RCA can be generative of parasites or not, for my part I think that not, the others think of what they want, here is:)
As information, + contact of a car radio can be also likened to a remote, without the tension is not any more passed on by the car radio in the ampli, but by the battery(drum kit) in the car radio as soon as we put the contact, authorizing then the post to ignite when we wish to make him(it) (thus the car radio is not fed by him(it) + contact but only by him(it) + permanent employee).
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